Safari Hunter

Lake Kariba - Zimbabwe's Inland Ocean

2009-05-08T02:03:00.000-07:00

Carrie Hampton found that the spirit of Nyanminyami - the Zambezi River God - is still working its magic at Lake Kariba and she soon became mesmerised into a catatonic state of pure relaxation.

Lake Kariba - Zimbabwe's Inland Ocean
It might have been the heat, which was heading towards a sweltering 38o, but there was something about Lake Kariba that mesmerised me into a catatonic state of pure relaxation. Nothing I saw seemed to make any sense at all.

Nothing Seemed Real
While fishing nonchalantly from a houseboat I noticed a vertical drainpipe drift through the water - perhaps I had drunk one too many sundowner cocktails. It turned out to be an elephant's trunk emerging, attached to a large grey dripping body.

The next day a dark handsome man, who looked as if he had stepped out of the pages of a Wilbur Smith novel, strolled along the same remote sand bank and stared intently at the ground as if searching for something. The hazy heat made me feel as if I was living in a dream and I wondered if anything at Lake Kariba was quite as it seemed.

Kariba's magic is attributed to Nyaminyami, the Zambezi River God who was undoubtedly responsible for the once-in-a-thousand-year flood in 1958 during the building of the massive dam. The river was finally tamed in June 1959 and the lake formed an inland ocean 285kms long and 40kms wide.

Men lost their lives and people their land in the formation of this dam, but more than 40 years on, the new eco-system provides life in many forms. Villagers and their livestock have constant access to water and the fishing is good. Holiday makers flock to the lake for fishing, sailing, game viewing and unadulterated rest & relaxation.

Wildlife abounds and there are so many crocodiles, that to keep numbers down, the National Parks Board allow crocodile farms to collect the newly-laid eggs for their hatcheries. They breed them for their meat and skins like any other domestic animal. This explains the hero-like Crocodile Dundee I saw walking the sandbank. He was looking for crocodile nests to raid - a job with inherent dangers.

Crocodile Dundee
I was to experience these dangers first hand after I persuaded him to take me along on the next foray for eggs. It seems that the female crocodile is quite canny and covers her metre-deep nest so thoroughly, that even an expert finds it hard to locate. A dusting of sand on a rock may be the only clue that a nest lies nearby.

When we found some signs, I had to dig into the soft sand like a dog looking for its bone, until I came across about 40 cylindrical cocoon-like eggs. These I was told to handle carefully, as turning them would kill the developing reptile. Another crocodile peculiarity is that the incubation temperature determines the sex. This bizarre freak of nature produces mostly males at 33°C and almost all females at 32°C.

You might think that the density of man-eating crocodiles would prohibit you from taking a refreshing dip in the cooling waters of Lake Kariba, but luckily many of the houseboats have a swimming cage. Crocodiles are not the only life threatening danger in the lake, hippopotami kill more people in Africa than any other animal.

These giant harmless-looking beasts become very grumpy if you invade their territory, or if you get between them and the water while they are grazing on grassy banks. It would only take one snap of those massive jaws to split you in two, but ironically they are strictly vegetarian, so they would spit you out again in disgust.

Don't worry, you are quite safe as long as you don't do anything really stupid. Just enjoy the wildlife and don't try and make friends with it. Africa equals animals and this one very good reason for you to come.

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Bulawayo and Matobos, Zimbabwe

2009-04-17T06:23:00.000-07:00

Bulawayo is the second largest city in Zimbabwe. Wide, tree-lined streets and suburban lawns make it hard to believe that the Kalahari desert lies over the Botswana border at nearby Plumtree. Equally hard to imagine is the blood that has, over the centuries, soaked into this thirsty soil.

Bulawayo's name means 'the killing place,' and executions of rival tribes had long been practiced by the dominant Ndebele. These warlike descendents of Shaka and his Zulus were nineteenth century migrants from South Africa.

The most recent bloodshed was in the early 1980s when President Robert Mugabe, a member of the ruling Shona tribe, violently suppressed Ndebele dissent. But the Ndebele were first defeated by the British. A subsequent gold rush gave the town initial impetus but proved to be short-lived. Finally, Cecil Rhodes, (the English imperialist) and his railway put Bulawayo on the map and it remains a transport hub today.

Bulawayo welcomed the country's first train in 1897 and its Railway Museum traces the last century of rail travel. A model of an historic station complete with period furnishings, and Cecil Rhodes' own private carriage, used to carry his body from Cape Town to the nearby Matobos hills, are some of the attractions.

Railway enthusiasts can arrange to ride the steam locomotives that still puff their way through the city. The National Railways of Zimbabwe publicity officer can be found in company headquarters on Fife Street.

Centenary Park and Central Park are adjacent to each other and make up forty-five hectares of green shade in the city centre. Central Park boasts Zimbabwe's largest ornamental fountain which was erected to commemorate the city's seventy-fifth birthday in 1968.

Along with a miniature railway, an aviary, a botanical garden and the municipal campsite, Bulawayo's theatre and National History Museum are to be found in Centenary Park. You'll find both parks on Samuel Parirenyatwa Street, east of the Bulawayo Publicity Association.

Founded in 1901, Bulawayo's Museum of Natural History is the country's finest museum. It has the largest indigenous mammal collection in Southern Africa and the second largest mounted elephant in the world. Birds, reptiles, fish and insects are also included and, in all, the museum houses 75,000 specimens.

Archaeology is represented in the prehistoric man exhibit as is anthropology in the displays of African and European culture. Geology with its rocks and minerals provide explanations of Zimbabwe's geological features and mining is explored in the replica of a gold mine. The museum is housed in a neo-Colosseum in Centenary Park on the corner of Park Road and Leopold Takawira Avenue.

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Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

Zimbabwe Harare and Midlands

2009-03-19T01:46:00.000-07:00

In 1896, Cecil Rhodes' Pioneer column staked its claim to this fertile high-lying plateau with its mild climate and named it Salisbury after a British Prime Minister. Today, the capital of Zimbabwe is named after an ancestral Shona chief, legendary as 'the one who never sleeps' and on the hill called the Kopje, the flame of perpetual Independence burns where once the Union Jack fluttered.

Harare doesn't quite live up to its name, however, despite the high-rises and teeming construction sites of the city centre. Although it is the most urban and westernised of Zimbabwe's varied landscapes, don't expect twenty-four-hour-a-day city life.

However, there is a vibrant African music scene and the Mbare Market is a traditional African market in stereo and Technicolor. Leave all valuables behind and go with a local - for reasons of security, and to get the most out of the experience. Nightlife consists mainly of dining, drinking and discos.

Harare Activites:
Less noisy pursuits are to be found, however. Harare is a showcase for the distinctive Shona style of sculpture where mythic beasts and rounded women erupt from polished soapstone. The Harare National Gallery is a good place to find out more.

Their outdoor sculpture garden features some of the best examples of the genre. Chapungu Kraal, a few miles from the city centre, offers the chance to meet the sculptors themselves . Along with over three hundred and fifty of the most highly-rated works, there is also traditional music and dance and even a witchdoctor should you need some guidance as to what to take home.

Older examples of indigenous art however lie further afield, in the Chinamora Communal lands some 35km (20 miles) out on the Borrowdale Road. Ancient humans, ancestors to the Bushman or San, once roamed Southern Africa. They left paintings on the rocks and thousands of years later the images remain.

Although there are many paintings at Domboshawa Cave, time and erosion has damaged them. Visit the Information Centre first to make sense of the pictures. Ngomakurira is a second site nearby whose paintings are in much better condition.

Surrounded by game parks, nature reserves and recreational lakes, Harare provides ample alternatives to urban pursuits. There are horseback safaris through the nearby Mukuvisi Woodlands just east of the city or picnic on the viewing platform above the water hole to get a birds-eye view of the small game.

For birding enthusiasts, Larvon Bird Gardens, is an opportunity to get acquainted with over 400 species of Southern African birds. Somewhat further afield, Ewanrigg Botanical Garden has an extensive aloe and cycad collection that is at its best during the winter months of June to September.

Two lakeside resorts complete the list of things to do outside Harare. Lake Chivero, some 35 km (20 miles) out of town, is Harare's favourite watersports playground, complete with small game reserve which stocks giraffe and antelope and a few elusive rhino.

There are a number of accommodation options around the lake. Just beyond Chivero is Manyame Recreational Park, the fisherman's favourite, with few amenities other than camping around the dam and, if you're lucky, African salmon over an open fire.

Chinoyi Caves National Park:
Chinoyi Caves National Park is 71 km (43 miles) north of Harare and makes a pleasant lunch stop on the long hot road to Kariba and the Zambezi. The small park houses a limestone cave formed when the ground collapsed into a sinkhole.

The deep blue pool beneath is known as the 'Sleeping Pool' and to the Shona as the 'Pool of the Fallen' after the many people who, over the centuries, have lost their lives to the bottomless waters. A look at the mysterious blue pool and lunch under the trees at the adjacent Caves Motel should set you on your way again. But, should you want to spend the night, there is a camping site adjacent to the park

The Midlands:
The cooler, high-lying Midlands, south of Harare, is mining territory. Brought to the surface by ancient earthquakes, the mineral-rich deposits of the Great Dyke ensure that commerce and industry is the region's chief preoccupation.

For the adventurous tourist however, this is an area that is little visited . Isolated lakes like Sebakwe Dam and Ngezi Recreational Park provide angling and boating opportunities for those that like their outdoors undisturbed by modern conveniences. Private game conservancies offer more luxurious surroundings.

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Zimbabwe with my Nephew

2009-02-26T03:48:00.000-08:00

by Sarah Anderson

'Travels with my Aunt' sounded appealing. Graham Greene had done it, but would I match up to his fictional Aunt Augusta, or the exotic Auntie Mame?

The telephone rang. “Sarah, it's 96.”

“96 what?”

“96 hours till we go, of course.”

I had been planning to take my eleven year old nephew, Alexander, on safari for months, but had only told him about the trip to Zimbabwe five weeks prior to our departure as I reckoned the excitement factor would have been unbearable to live with had he known any earlier.

'Travels with my Aunt' sounded appealing. Graham Greene had done it, but would I match up to his fictional Aunt Augusta, or the exotic Auntie Mame? Would 'Travels with my Uncle' (although it does not have the same ring) be something that Hugh Grant would have considered in the new film Notting Hill which is set in the Travel Bookshop [the shop I started in 1979], or is he too involved with Julia Roberts to want to travel with a spare niece?

With the final 96 hours somehow survived, Alex (as he was known in Africa) and I found ourselves alone at Gatwick. He told me that he thought travelling with just two people, something he had never done before, seemed promising and we settled down on our overnight flight to Harare. We had been warned that the October heat could be stifling, but the Harare morning was cold and it was not until we arrived at Imbabala, a small family run camp, on the banks of the Zambezi near Victoria Falls, that we began to feel warm. Our first evening was spent drinking sundowners, drifting down the Zambezi on a pontoon absorbing the sunset and watching large herds of elephants swimming across the river supporting their calves in the deep water. After dinner Alex organized a night drive for himself with Gavin Best; I had determined on an early night for both of us, but found my arm being fairly easily twisted by his enthusiasm. I was too exhausted to go, but lay in bed unable to sleep, thinking unimaginable thoughts until his safe return.

During the day, between different safari activities, I found it wonderfully peaceful sitting outside our chalet watching the blue Zambezi flow past, and in the cool of the evening we went on a walking safari with Gavin who was armed with a gun. Walking is the way to feel most at one with the animals; hearing becomes the most important sense and although we did not see much game, having the tracks and spore pointed out was fascinating. There is also the added frisson of danger. We did see a porcupine in the dusk, and on the night drive that evening (which I joined), we saw a leopard, the animal I had most wanted to see, and had a well-camouflaged boomslang snake in a tree pointed out. What the guides are able to see will never cease to impress me, but it is astonishing how one's own eyes develop and start to 'see' after a while on safari. At this stage a warthog, which kneels on its front legs to eat and which is born with callouses on its knees in preparation for a lifetime of foraging, was Alex's favourite animal, because he liked the way it put its tail in the air when it ran.

We spent one day in Chobe National Park in Botswana. We were dropped at the border and picked up the other side; going to Botswana meant that we got extra stamps in our passports. Chobe is renowned for its plentiful game and from the river in the morning we saw herds of buffalo, one of Africa's most dangerous mammals, hippos, giraffe, crocodiles, elephants and a multitude of birds. Because October marks the end of the dry season, game flock to the remaining water, making it an excellent month for viewing. Alex had heard about the Big Five (lion, elephant, leopard, rhino and buffalo ) and was determined to try and see them all before we left Africa. He was also keen on seeing predators which produced an unfortunate conflict of interests when we were lucky enough to come across eleven lions by the side of the road no more than six feet from us. A woman at the back of our land-rover was petrified and wanted to move on fast, while both Alex and myself wanted to stay and watch for as long as possible. Her fear won.

Arriving at Imbabala that evening felt like going home. In Chobe we had lunched at a large hotel and it was wonderful to be back at the small camp where everyone knew everyone else’s name (I had my own special memory booster in the shape of Alex who was always on hand to remind me of names of people, animals and places). Shay Best, the manager, told me how refreshing it was to have someone as enthusiastic as Alex to stay, as most boys of his age appear bored and spoilt. I was also profiting from his enthusiasm. He'd constantly ask interesting questions about the animals and their behaviour and about the political situation in Zimbabwe. I am used to travelling on my own and carry some innate British reserve with me, but his ease and friendliness with everyone we met rubbed off on me and I got none of the suspicion that often accompanies a lone traveller.

We were both sad to leave Imbabala where we had felt so welcome and where wild water-buck had come up to our chalet, but the sight of Victoria Falls was so spectacular that we had little time for regrets. If we who have seen the Falls in films and photographs can still find the sight amazing, how much more amazing must it have seemed to David Livingstone in 1855 who would have heard the roar long before he sighted the water? It was here that I had my second panic attack. At some of the vantage points round the falls the barriers are flimsy and knee-high. I suffer from dire vertigo, but have learnt to cope with it on my own by not going anywhere near the edge. Alex had no such fear, going right up to the brink; I was already rehearsing the telephone call to my sister...

At Elephant Camp we helped wash and groom four of the resident elephants: Miz Ellie, Jumbo, Jock and Jack before riding them, sitting behind a groom, in the evening. The elephants are orphans from a cull and are unquestionably well-treated, but both Alex and myself felt slightly uncomfortable when the elephants were asked to perform tricks even though we were assured that this was only to ensure their continued obedience. As we were having dinner, jackals, kudu and bushbuck (kinds of antelope) wandered in and out of the floodlight, and on our elephant ride the next morning we were lucky enough to see a wild dog.

Our next camp was Jijima, on the edge of Hwange National Park where the rooms were tented chalets with thatched roofs. This was a slightly bigger camp than the previous two but we were welcomed with the same friendliness we had found everywhere. We had arrived just too late for the afternoon driving safari but when they noticed our disappointment we were immediately offered the chance of a walk. Jijima has a resident tame orphaned impala named Maa, an antelope with beautiful markings aged six, who walked with us. I felt that if she were with us we would be alerted to the danger of lions or elephants, but evidently she thinks of herself as human and only flees from wild dogs. There was a long drive into Hwange National Park the following morning, and at the pan (water-hole) in the middle of the park where we had breakfast we saw several herds of elephants, zebra, wildebeeste, a warthog with babies, impala, giraffe, baboon and buffalo. Giraffes have an endearing way of drinking: the majority spread their front legs wide apart and lower their necks into the water, but a few bend their front legs. It was these drinking poses which enabled the giraffe supplant the warthog as Alex's favourite animal.

We spent one night at Induna Lodge on the outskirts of Bulawayo and because of limited time there had to make the difficult choice of either going to the Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage or to the Natural History Museum. Rob Macdonald our host advised the museum, partly because it was so often robbed that if we were ever to come back there would inevitably be less to see. It was a good decision; by now we had seen so many animals (some at quite a distance) that to be able to see them at close range was satisfying and the displays of insects and the history of Cecil Rhodes were extremely well done.

By now we had seen four of the Big Five, but still had the hardest to find. The black rhino had been poached almost to extinction, but there are now 73 in the Bubiana Conservancy our last stop. After an hour's flight south-east from Bulawayo in a small plane we arrived at Barberton Lodge situated in the middle of the conservancy and built out of the side of a granite hill. There are only four bedrooms, each with its own particular view, and the open circular dining room which is up a flight of steep stairs has a stupendous outlook to distant hills. We arrived, the only guests, in the heat of the day, and went for a drive with our guide Liesel Crooks when it had cooled down. The next morning I could hardly believe the change in the weather; it was cold, grey and wet. Was I really still in Africa? This was also bad news for seeing game, as the animals, like us, tend to hunker down in the cold. Time was running out for rhino-spotting. Liesel took us on a walk to see some Bushmen Paintings which have only recently been discovered and are anything between 4 and 10 thousand years old. The paintings, done with a mixture of animal fat, ochre and blood, are of people and animals, about five inches tall and extremely lifelike. We picked out a pregnant woman, a man with a bow and arrow, a zebra, a sable-antelope and people dancing.

I had barely ridden since school but was determined to try the following morning. I was given what was said to be a quiet horse, but was warned that it might try to jump anything jumpable. Alex, who rides at home, expressed his concern that I looked somewhat unrelaxed but we did not go faster than a walk and I found riding a particularly enjoyable way of absorbing the landscape. The weather had improved by the evening and we watched the sunset, drinking cocktails from a boat on the reservoir. The following day, our last, was Alex's 12th birthday and our last chance to see that elusive black rhino. The conservancy employs 55 scouts to check on the rhinos’ whereabouts and to catch poachers. When a scout has sighted a rhino he radios the camp and interested parties then drive and walk to where the [usually sleeping] rhino has been seen.

After riding again on the morning of our last day, a scout rushed into the camp (his radio batteries had failed) to say he had seen the rhino called Alfie. Liesel went to retrieve her gun and we were given instructions about what to do if he charged. We set off firstly by car and then on foot through the bush; we walked for about twenty minutes and the closer we got the slower and quieter we had to be until the scout leading us took off his shoes and we had to almost hold our breath. Suddenly there he was, only about twenty yards away. It was both exciting and frightening. While he was lying down he looked exactly like a rock, but then he got up, having sensed us and we glimpsed his unique horn before he ambled off. We had seen the Big Five.

Alex had not minded at all not seeing anyone of his own age on the trip and when someone suggested that maybe we should do a series of 'Travels with my Aunt Round the World', I said I'd need to win the lottery and he crossed his fingers expectantly. My young Boswell helped my memory with this article which I said I needed to write while it was fresh in my mind. He told me not to worry 'as it would always be fresh in his.'

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Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

Victoria Falls - The Adventure Capital of Africa

2009-02-13T03:02:00.000-08:00

“Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight” – quote by David Livingstone

Victoria Falls, known by the locals as ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ which means ‘the Smoke that Thunders’, is regarded as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The Victoria Falls span some 1700 m across making it the largest curtain of water in the world during high water. It drops about 100m over a sheet of basalt rock rumbling and crashing like thunder into the Zambezi Gorge below. The vast cloud of mist that it creates can reach 400m high and be seen from 40 km away.

Remarkably preserved in its natural state, Victoria Falls inspires visitors as much today as it did David Livingstone in 1855. The Victoria Falls and the surrounding area have been declared National Parks and a World Heritage Site, thus preserving the area from excessive commercialisation. The continuous spray creates a rainforest ecosystem, a nature sanctuary rich in fauna and flora.

You may ask what the best time of the year is to see Victoria Falls. The Victoria Falls and its spectacular flow of water can be enjoyed throughout most of the year. The volume of water cascading over the falls is entirely dependent on the rainfall in the catchment area of the Zambezi River.
High water is from February to mid July:
The Victoria Falls is at its highest and most spectacular, thundering over the edge and creating its thick cloud of mist. Prepare to be drenched when viewing the falls! River rafting and river boarding down the Zambezi River is sometimes closed between mid March and early May because the river becomes unsafe. I believe this is the best time to enjoy a scenic helicopter and microlight flight over the falls to get the full appreciation of the Zambezi’s immense power.

Low water is from July to end January:
Low water season has its advantages too as visitors are able to fully appreciate the geological formation of the falls as visibility will be clear. This is also of course when river rafting and river boarding is at its most adventurous, rushing adrenalin through your body like no other activity has ever done or will ever do! Regarded as the world's greatest white water rafting adventure, rafting down the mighty Zambezi is an experience like none other.

Victoria Falls is not renowned as Africa’s Adventure Capital for nothing! The adventure activities available to you here are endless. We’ve mentioned white water rafting and river boarding down the mighty Zambezi and helicopter and microlight flights over the Victoria Falls, but there is plenty more such as canoeing safaris on the Zambezi, kayaking, walking with lions, horse-back and elephant-back safaris, game drives into Zambezi National Park, gorge swing, bunji jumping (111m drop!), sunset cruises, jet boating, abseiling and fishing. There are also guided tours of Livingstone and Victoria Falls town as well as day safaris to Chobe National Park in Botswana and Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. So I would recommend a minimum of 3 nights in Victoria Falls to experience what it’s all about.

To fully appreciate the Victoria Falls experience you have the option of staying on either the Zimbabwe side or the Zambian side. The Zambezi River forms the border between these two countries. The view of the Falls is more magnificent from the Zimbabwean side but the Zambian side does offer some truly unique, beautiful, all-inclusive luxury lodges right on the waters edge. Victoria Falls town on the Zimbabwean side is more geared for tourists than Livingstone is on the Zambian side, offering a large range of accommodation options suitable for various budgets. Victoria Falls offers a vibrant, welcoming and friendly atmosphere.

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Top Tourist Attractions

2009-01-15T23:48:00.000-08:00

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls, shared by Zimbabwe and Zambia, is a prime safari vacation destination, an adventure seekers delight and a honeymooner’s paradise!

Roughly a mile (1.7 kilometres) wide when the Zambezi River is in flood, and 420 feet (128 metres) high, Victoria Falls is the largest sheet of falling water on earth. For millennia the waters of the Zambezi have carved a huge chasm into a fracture of the bedrock resulting in the most breathtaking vistas imaginable.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, Victoria Falls is certainly Zimbabwe’s most popular tourist destination.

Hwange National Park

Located in Zimbabwe within easy driving distance from Victoria Falls on the southbound road to Bulawayo, Hwange National Park is one of Africa’s renowned game reserves – world famous for its giant African elephant herds.

Hwange boasts 9 100 square miles (14 600 square kilometres) of superb diverse habitat. Teak forests, granite koppies, mopane woodland, thornveld, floodplain and grassland support over 100 species of animals and 400 species of birds. The diversity and number of animals congregating around waterholes in the mid-year dry season is astounding – a photo safari highlight.

Harare

Harare is the administrative and commercial capital of Zimbabwe. Tobacco, maize, cotton, citrus and other fruits as well as textiles and steel formed the basis of the economy. A good selection of international standard hotels is available to choose from and the airport is located about 20 minutes from the city centre.

Harare is often used as a base when exploring the mystical Great Zimbabwe Ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Leading article: We can give Zimbabwe hope

2008-12-17T06:08:00.000-08:00

The Hide | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

Sunday, 30 November 2008

The last that most people in this country knew of Zimbabwe was that a power-sharing deal had been done between Robert Mugabe and Morgan Tsvangirai, the opposition leader. Some of us might have been aware that the implementation of the deal had become a bit sticky, and we might have wondered what had become of Mr Tsvangirai in recent weeks.

The truth is that Mr Tsvangirai has been spending a lot of time in South Africa, engaged in tortuous negotiations over the allocation of ministerial posts. Progress was made last week, for example, in agreeing amendments to the constitution to put the deal into effect. But the allocation of cabinet posts has not yet been settled, with Mr Mugabe trying to hold on to all those responsible for security. The campaign of obstruction waged by the old despot ensures that the agreement will take a long time to yield practical benefits. And there is hope in the long view, because Jacob Zuma, the leader-presumptive of South Africa, promises a more active engagement by the regional power – and not least because of the inauguration of an American President of part-Kenyan descent in seven weeks' time.

While all this is going on, the suffering of the people of Zimbabwe continues to worsen. Millions of Zimbabweans have fled the country, most of them to South Africa, a few to Britain, where, to our shame, the Home Office is trying to send them back. The economy of Zimbabwe, including the rural economy, is so tattered that, of the population that remains, half will need food aid in the coming month. One of the best-known numbers in the world must be the average life expectancy in the country, reduced from 60 just two decades ago to 34 now.

As our special correspondent in Zimbabwe reports today from Zimbabwe, the cash economy has ceased to function, with the speed of inflation testing the limits of theoretical mathematics at a rate of 2.8 quintillion per cent a year. "Doctors and teachers whose monthly wage does not buy one square meal are leaving their jobs to forage for food like everyone else," he reports. "The first sight that greets visitors who fly into Harare is that of people tilling public land beside the airport."

Now cholera has taken hold and is spreading.

That is why The Independent on Sunday has chosen Save the Children in Zimbabwe for its Christmas appeal this year. The situation in that country is one of the worst humanitarian catastrophes in the world today. More than that, it has two features that make it particularly deserving of our attention.

One is that something can be done. Even the most hard-faced sceptic about the efficacy of development charities would have to accept the case for help here. Zimbabwe is capable of feeding its people, but the collapse of the state and society makes it temporarily impossible. Nor does it take much to keep children alive. Nor does it require a huge additional logistical effort. Save the Children has worked in the country for 25 years. It is one of the functioning institutions still in good shape after the ravages of Mugabe over that time. It can deliver food directly to children who need it at very little cost.

The other feature of the Zimbabwe crisis is that we in Britain retain a vestigial responsibility to the people there. It is 28 years since the Thatcher government signed the Lancaster House Agreement, granting independence to Rhodesia under its African name. Of course, Mr Mugabe, then admired as a democrat and national liberator, bears the prime responsibility for the wrecking of one of the most prosperous and fortunate of African nations. And he has exploited our colonial history ruthlessly to portray Britain as the external enemy, in such a way as to make it impossible for Britain to play much part in putting international pressure on his regime. But, people-to-people rather than government-to-government, there is still much that we can, and should, do.

That is why we are asking our readers to respond generously to help make a difference. Please, use the coupon with this article and use the Gift Aid tax concession to reclaim and donate any tax that you have already paid.

We urge you to read our report from Matabeleland North in our news pages. Although the long-term prospect for Zimbabwe is hopeful, the political deal made in September and ratcheted another notch forward in South Africa last week will bring its desperate people no succour in the short term. As our correspondent concludes in his personal despatch: "If they are to be given any hope this Christmas, it will have to come from us."

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http://www.independent.co.uk/

Zimbabwe shops stop accepting local currency

2008-10-27T04:40:00.000-07:00

Zimbabwe Safari Lodge | The Hide

Article Source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk

Shops in Zimbabwe are refusing to accept the local currency after it depreciated at its fastest ever rate at the weekend.

By Peta Thornycroft in Harare and Sebastien Berger
Last Updated: 9:30AM GMT 27 Oct 2008

While millions of Zimbabweans are already going hungry, the move by supermarket owners, who have few goods available for customers to buy, has added to the hardship experienced by the urban population.

Most do not have access to foreign currency, such as US dollars or the South African rand, now demanded by shopkeepers for payment.

A sign outside a supermarket in Harare's wealthy northern suburbs informed the public on Sunday that, like many other shops, it would not accept cheques or debit cards, because they take too long to clear while the Zimbabwe dollar plunges hourly.

Weeping with frustration, a well-dressed woman fled the shop in tears as she was left unable to buy anything, despite having amassed Z$14 billion for her weekly shop. But even cash was useless, and the shop manager told her he was only accepting US dollars.

"I felt really terrible telling her this, she is a good customer, a really nice person, but it is too difficult to sell in local currency," he said. "We don't know how to mark up goods as the Zimbabwe dollar is worthless now."

All his goods except meat and most vegetables were imported from South Africa and, with 75 per cent tax, payable in foreign currency to the government slapped on every item, many basic items cost four to five times as much as south of the border, even with a relatively low mark-up.

"I don't even know the rate for the Zim dollar as it changes by the hour," he said. "We have no alternative but to try and stay alive by charging in US. I am really feeling the strain and I can see customers, and many are old friends, are suffering. Some of them used to be quite well off."

The country's hyperinflation is driven by the central bank creating ever more money to fund the government's activities. Even though the authorities chopped 10 zeroes off the currency in August, its interventions and regulations have created a bewildering array of black-market exchange rates.

For cash notes, which the price rises mean are in appallingly short supply despite the printing presses working overtime, on Sunday £1 was worth around Z$110,000. But for cheque transfers, £1 brought anywhere from Z$8 billion to Z$32billion.

At independence in 1980, the Zimbabwe dollar was worth more than the US dollar, but Robert Mugabe's regime has destroyed the economy, with the slide accelerating in recent years, months and weeks.

John Robertson, an independent economist, said the Zimbabwe dollar's current plunge was unprecedented. "We had seen it losing value at about 25 per cent a day, now it is losing hundreds of per cent an hour. It is now a valueless currency."

A Zimbabwean businessman said: "The Reserve Bank is looting, that is what caused this end-of-game crash. The Zim dollar lost three zeroes in a week. Now you can fly from Harare to Victoria Falls for US 20 cents."

For ordinary Zimbabweans life has become almost impossible. Bank cash withdrawals are limited to a maximum Z$50,000 a day – enough to buy two bananas from street vendors, who are still selling in the local currency, but 0.000625p at the cheque rate.

Companies are only allowed Z$10,000, or half a banana in street value.

Shops have begun refusing to accept Zimbabwean dollars in any form.

A businessman said: "When supermarkets have to start paying their workers in US dollars they will have to close. When the civil servants demand foreign currency wages, then that will be the end of the road for Mugabe."

Southern African leaders meanwhile meet in Harare on Monday for an emergency summit on Zimbabwe's political stalemate. Mr Mugabe, the opposition leader Morgan Tsvangirai and the former South African president Thabo Mbeki will discuss implementing a power-sharing agreement, although hopes for progress are slim.

Safari in Zimbabwe

2008-09-19T04:38:00.000-07:00

The Hide | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

COUNTRY DESCRIPTION: Zimbabwe is a developing landlocked country in southern Africa. Tourist facilities are available in Victoria Falls, Great Zimbabwe, major cities, and selected game parks. Read the Department of State Background Notes on Zimbabwe for additional information.

ENTRY/EXIT REQUIREMENTS: A passport, visa, return ticket, and adequate funds are required. U.S. citizens traveling to Zimbabwe for tourism, business, or transit can obtain a visa at the airports and border ports-of-entry, or in advance by contacting the Embassy of Zimbabwe at 1608 New Hampshire Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20009; telephone (202) 332-7100. American citizens considering travel to Zimbabwe to visit tourist destinations, including eco-tourist sites or hunting safaris, or for business purposes, are advised that the Government of Zimbabwe has declared that American visitors with proper documentation will be allowed entry without difficulty. However, the Government of Zimbabwe has also signaled an intention to refuse entry to Americans who are believed to have a bias against the Zimbabwean government. In some instances, Zimbabwean immigration officials have used materials found in searches of travelers and their luggage as an explanation to refuse entry. Visit the Embassy of Zimbabwe web site at http://www.zimbabwe-embassy.us/ for the most current visa information.

Upon arrival in Zimbabwe, travelers should keep all travel documents readily available, as well as a list of residences or hotels where they will stay while in Zimbabwe. Travelers to Zimbabwe must carry some form of identification at all times.
On June 5, 2008 the Government of Zimbabwe announced an immediate, indefinite suspension of all aid and development work in Zimbabwe. Americans traveling to Zimbabwe to work in those fields should insure they have proper permission and documentation from the Zimbabwean government to work legally.

Since January 2007, several American citizens applying for or renewing residency or work permits have had their applications denied without explanation and been asked to depart the country, sometimes despite having lived and worked in Zimbabwe for many months or years.

U.S. citizens who intend to work in Zimbabwe as journalists must apply for accreditation with the Zimbabwean Embassy at least one month in advance of planned travel. The Government of Zimbabwe uses an extremely expansive definition of journalism and any formal interviews, filming or photography may be considered “presenting oneself as an accredited journalist,” a crime punishable by arrest or detention. If you are in doubt about whether or not your purpose of travel constitutes journalism, please seek clarification from the Zimbabwean Embassy in Washington BEFORE you travel. It is no longer possible to seek accreditation after arrival in Zimbabwe. Journalists attempting to enter Zimbabwe without proper advance accreditation may be denied admission, detained for questioning, arrested or deported. Journalists seeking to file stories from Zimbabwe must comply with the requirements of the Access to Information and Protection of Privacy Act, which requires that journalists seek accreditation by paying a $100 (U.S.) application fee and, if accredited, a $500 (U.S.) accreditation fee.

U.S. citizen students and faculty at educational and other institutions who wish to do research in Zimbabwe should contact a host educational or research institution for affiliation prior to applying for a visa. Despite fulfilling all such requirements and receiving appropriate permission, legitimate researchers have been detained in the past by the police because the subject of their research was believed to be sensitive.

While there is no set legal limit on the amount of foreign currency that a person can carry into Zimbabwe, it is illegal to take more than $1,000 U.S. dollars or more than $5,000,000,000 Zimbabwean dollars out of the country, whether departing by road or air. Travelers seeking to depart with greater amounts of local currency risk having the money confiscated and/or being prevented from leaving pending a court appearance.

Information about dual nationality or the prevention of international child abduction can be found on our web site. For further information about customs regulations, please read our Customs Information sheet.

SAFETY AND SECURITY: The political, social, economic, and security situations in Zimbabwe are volatile and could deteriorate quickly without warning. In the period before and after the presidential elections in March 2008 and again during the runoff elections in June 2008 the Zimbabwe government authorized its security forces to suppress all dissent by whatever means it deems necessary. In recent months, political leaders at the highest levels of the Zimbabwean government have condoned the security forces’ use of violence against opponents of the government. The government has defended its right to treat individuals roughly, including those in custody, and has warned of more such actions.

Because the political situation in Zimbabwe remains fluid and subject to change at a moment’s notice, American citizens should carefully evaluate the need to travel to Zimbabwe at this time. United States government personnel are restricted from travel more than 40 kilometers outside of Harare without the permission of the Ambassador.

In the wake of the March 29, 2008 presidential elections, there has been widespread political violence, particularly in rural areas and high-density suburbs. Zimbabwean security forces, including some military and police, as well as so-called war veterans, have created a climate of intimidation and fear across the country. There have been numerous and widespread attacks on opposition supporters, renewed farm invasions, and arrests and beatings of election officials accused of vote tampering. These attacks have resulted in numerous deaths and hundreds of injuries. The government’s security forces have also directed violence at common citizens, indiscriminately beating individuals on the street and in private establishments.

U.S. citizens are strongly urged to avoid all political rallies and demonstrations, or large gatherings of any kind anywhere in Zimbabwe. Zimbabwean media outlets, particularly those affiliated with the Government of Zimbabwe, publish incendiary reports accusing the United States, Australian and British governments of funding terrorism and advocating regime change in Zimbabwe. On April 1, 2007, a government sponsored newspaper, The Herald, charged that a UK Embassy employee was “meddling” in Zimbabwean affairs and threatened that if she didn’t cease her conduct, she might next arrive in London in a body bag.

Resident and visiting Americans have been arrested, detained, or threatened with expulsion for activities that would not be considered crimes in the U.S., including the expression of opinions regarding the current political regime in Zimbabwe. On May 13, 2008 and on June 5, 2008, American and other diplomats were detained by government security forces for several hours outside Harare. On the second occasion, one Zimbabwean U.S. embassy employee was physically assaulted and the entire group was threatened with violence. Americans should carefully evaluate the need to travel around Zimbabwe by road, and make alternate plans when possible. If traveling by road, Americans should make sure they have working communication devices, and evidence of their citizenship such as photocopy of the face page of the passport. Americans should also notify a trusted friend or family member of their itinerary and expected departure and arrival times.

The streets around State House, the official residence of the President, and the Botanical Gardens are particularly sensitive and a number of pedestrians and motorists, including Americans, have been assaulted by local security forces when walking or driving in that area. President Mugabe and other senior government officials travel around Harare accompanied by large and aggressive motorcades that have been known to run motorists off the road, and by security personnel who occasionally beat and harass drivers who fail to pull out of the way quickly enough. American citizens are advised to be aware of police vehicles flashing lights and sirens and move quickly off the road if overtaken by a motorcade.

American visitors have been detained in the past under suspicion of operating as journalists without accreditation for photographing cultural sites and areas that may not immediately appear to be sensitive. Tourists may also be subject to harassment or arrest for photographing police, roadblocks, occupied commercial farms, and government buildings or military installations, official residences or embassies, including the president’s palace. Prior written permission must be obtained from the appropriate government office before taking such photographs. It is not always immediately apparent what the police deem sensitive and American citizens have been detained for hours for photographing such seemingly innocuous subjects as fruit carts and religious buildings such as churches, mosques and synagogues. American citizens are encouraged to be very aware of their surroundings before taking any pictures outside game parks and known tourist areas.

The government frequently uses road blocks to enforce order, particularly in urban centers. Road blocks can be particularly dangerous, and extreme caution should be used when approaching them. When instructed by police or other security officials to stop at a roadblock, comply with these instructions. If possible, carry a mobile phone or other means of communication. In November 2002, Zimbabwean police outside of Mutare killed an American citizen at a roadblock.

Other ongoing security conditions that could affect the safety of tourists in Zimbabwe include rising crime (see below) and the occupation of commercial farms by members of the National War Veterans' Association and others. The so-called war veterans have seized American-owned property, and residents and tourists alike should avoid areas where war veterans are active.

Sharp price cuts on local goods have caused widespread shortages of bread, milk, meat, and other basic goods. Visitors should be prepared for food shortages. Zimbabwe is currently experiencing a significant nationwide fuel shortage, as well. Travelers should carefully assess their fuel situation, keep their tanks full, and consider carrying extra fuel in sealed containers specifically designed for such purpose before making any long-distance journeys.

The Department of State urges American citizens to take responsibility for their own personal security while traveling overseas. Americans who travel to Zimbabwe should closely monitor the situation, keep travel documents up to date, and make their own contingency plans. Americans overseas are advised to make or update complete inventories of their household effects and to maintain an adequate supply of food, water and necessary medications in their home. See the State Department’s information on emergency and crisis planning.

For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department of State, Bureau of Consular Affairs’ web site at http://travel.state.gov, where the current Travel Warnings and Travel Alerts, as well as the Worldwide Caution, can be found.

Up-to-date information on safety and security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll-free in the U.S. and Canada, or for overseas callers outside the U.S. and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).

The Department of State urges American citizens to take responsibility for their own personal security while traveling overseas. For general information about appropriate measures travelers can take to protect themselves in an overseas environment, see the Department of State’s pamphlet A Safe Trip Abroad.

CRIME: Crime is a serious problem in Zimbabwe, and is driven by the country's deteriorating economy.

Street crime in Zimbabwe is a serious problem. Americans and other foreigners are perceived to be wealthy and are frequently targeted by criminals who operate in the vicinity of hotels, restaurants, and shopping areas of the major cities and tourist areas such as Victoria Falls. Although the majority of crimes in Zimbabwe are non-violent, perpetrators are generally armed with weapons, which can include firearms. The downtown sector of Harare and its high density residential suburbs are particularly high-crime areas. A number of American visitors have been assaulted or robbed while walking in the town of Victoria Falls, especially after dark.

Travelers should secure their luggage at airports, railway and bus stations, and when making calls from public telephones. Purse-snatchers will often work in teams of two, with one person acting as a diversion. A typical mugging involves a group of young males who surround and overwhelm their victim in a public area. Avoid displaying or carrying unnecessary valuables, such as expensive jewelry, and do not carry large sums of money. Cell phones are of particular interest to local thieves. Always secure items such as passports, money, jewelry, and credit cards in hotel safety deposit boxes or safes when not being used. The use of credit cards is not recommended unless the exchange rate can be determined before their use.

Travelers should avoid driving at night outside the low-density suburban areas. Drivers should be alert for “smash and grabs,” where thieves break the windows of cars stopped at intersections and take items from inside the car. Car doors should always be locked and the windows rolled up. Handbags, wallets, and other items should be placed out of sight under car seats or in the trunk of the car. While stopped in traffic, drivers should always be aware and look around to identify potential trouble. Drivers should always leave sufficient maneuver room between their vehicle and the one in front so they can drive away from danger. Travelers who suspect that their vehicle is being followed should drive to the nearest police station or other protected public area for assistance. Reducing idle times at traffic lights by slowing in advance to anticipate the changing of the light is an effective deterrent. Drivers should also be cautious of people using ploys to lure them out of their cars. In one ploy, an assailant will slash a tire and then offer to help with the flat, particularly on the road to Harare International Airport. Beware of drivers in vehicles without license plates who stop to render aid or who cause minor accidents. Always drive to a well-lit and populated area before making repairs or exchanging information.

Travelers are encouraged to make two photocopies of the biographic/identification page of their passport. They should leave one copy at home with friends or relatives and carry the second copy with them for identification purposes.

INFORMATION FOR VICTIMS OF CRIME: The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while overseas, in addition to reporting to local police, please contact the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate for assistance. The Embassy/Consulate staff can, for example, assist you to find appropriate medical care, contact family members or friends and explain how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal justice process and to find an attorney if needed.

The local equivalent to the “911” emergency line in Zimbabwefor the police is 995/999; for fire fighters 994/999 and for ambulance: 993/999.

See our information on Victims of Crime.

MEDICAL FACILITIES AND HEALTH INFORMATION: Medical facilities are extremely limited. There have been several instances where American citizens facing life-threatening illnesses or injuries have been turned away from hospitals because there were not sufficient beds or medical supplies available. Most serious illnesses or accidents require medical evacuation to South Africa. All travelers are strongly urged to obtain medical evacuation insurance coverage prior to arriving in Zimbabwe. Doctors, hospitals and air ambulance medical evacuation services often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Travelers are urged to carry an ample supply of prescription and other medications, as they will not likely be available in Zimbabwe. Provincial hospitals in rural areas have rudimentary staffing, equipment, and supplies, and are not equipped to provide medical care in case of a serious accident. The fuel shortage further diminishes emergency response capabilities. Emergency patients have sometimes had to arrange their own transportation to the hospital.

The water supply is not always potable; use bottled or distilled water for drinking.

Malaria is prevalent throughout Zimbabwe, except in Harare, due to the capital’s high altitude. The CDC strongly recommends that malaria prophylaxis and preventive measures are taken when traveling outside of Harare.

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Zimbabwe.

Tuberculosis is an increasingly serious health concern in South Africa. For further information, please consult the CDC's Travel Notice on TB at http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/yellowBookCh4-TB.aspx.

In early 2006, the World Health Organization (WHO) confirmed a limited outbreak of cholera in Harare, Chikomba and Buhera districts. Cases of cholera were also confirmed in Harare in January and February 2007.

Information on vaccinations and other health precautions, such as safe food and water precautions and insect bite protection, may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s hotline for international travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747) or via the CDC’s web site at http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/default.aspx. For information about outbreaks of infectious diseases abroad consult the World Health Organization’s (WHO) web site at http://www.who.int/en. Further health information for travelers is available at http://www.who.int/ith/en.

MEDICAL INSURANCE: The Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and whether it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. Please see our information on medical insurance overseas.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Zimbabwe is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance.

The main roads throughout Zimbabwe are generally in fair but deteriorating condition. Most lack passing lanes, shoulders, breakdown lanes, lighting, reflectors, and similar safety features.

Service stations frequently lack fuel or repair parts. Inter-city commuter bus travel, except by “luxury coaches,” is dangerous due to overcrowding, inadequate maintenance, and drivers who are fatigued and who fail to adhere to local speed limits and to obey traffic rules or regulations. Travelers are advised to avoid driving at night due to pedestrians (in dark clothing) and animals walking in the poorly lit roads. Motor vehicles often have no headlights or taillights and are difficult to see at night. Traffic moves on the left and many people drive over the speed limit. The passing lanes are not always clearly marked, and road visibility at times can be restricted. In urban areas, lane markers are often faded and traffic, streetlights are often inoperable and large potholes are cropping up in previously well-maintained roads.

It is illegal to operate a cellular telephone while driving in Zimbabwe. Drivers are required to wear seat belts or helmets if driving motorcycles. Car seats are not legally required for small children. Travelers should pack several pairs of latex gloves in the event of a road accident involving serious injuries or bleeding, as Zimbabwe has one of the highest rates of HIV/AIDS infection in southern Africa.

A nationwide fuel shortage makes internal travel difficult and unreliable, and severely restricts the response capability of police and other emergency services.

The Ministry of Transport is the government authority responsible for road safety in Zimbabwe. There is no national established network of roadside emergency service. However, the Automobile Association of Zimbabwe, similar to the American Automobile Association, is willing to provide roadside emergency service to nonmembers for a fee. Travelers interested in contacting the service during their stay in Zimbabwe may contact AA Zimbabwe at 263-4-752-779. AA Zimbabwe’s 24-hour emergency roadside helpline is 263-4-707-959.

Please refer to our Road Safety page for more information. Visit the web site of the country’s national tourist office and national authority responsible for road safety at http://www.zimbabwetourism.co.zw/.